The sea is rough. Some time through the night the boat began rocking and rolling on the large swells. At one point I had to put a pillow under my hip to stop from rolling out of bed. I woke early, Roberto was already up setting the tables for breakfast. It was so rough I had to hold the walls when walking to prevent me from falling over.. As Roberto placed the silverware  on the table the ship would roll and the silverware would slide off the table.  This morning we were supposed to have a wet landing on a white pristine beach for a walk and swim. The waves were so rough we had to abort our landing and switch to plan B, a panga ride along the rock cliff followed by snorkelling in a calmer bay.

The rock wall is teeming with colourful fish and the sandy bottom lined with large starfish. Snorkelling is becoming one of our favourite activities. Wearing a wet suit allows us to stay in the water longer to take in the beautiful sights below. After snorkelling we got back on the ship and set sail for the town of San Crisotbel. It’s a clear sunny day. Some ladies lounge up top and others relax in their cabins below. The scenery is beautiful; sandy beaches and interesting rock formations that rise up out of the sea.

  The ladies were delighted to take a stroll through town. Sea lions were lounging on the stairs near our landing dock and along the streets in town. There’s even a few clever ones that have taken over the park benches.  We boarded a bus to take us to an interpretive centre where we learned about the island and its historical past. Afterwards we went to the local beach for a refreshing swim.  Once again it’s a hot humid day. The ladies enjoyed floating in the cool water. Afterwards we headed back to the boat for a delicious lunch and to relax for a while before our afternoon adventure.

Late afternoon we headed back into town for a bus ride up to the top of the island to view the caldera, a volcano crater which is now a small lake.  It’s another hot day so the hike up is long and we must make frequent stops to sip water.  The view is spectacular!  When we first arrived it was clear and then the clouds and mist rolled in. It was quite a sight to watch the mist roll across the lake towards us.  this are’s nick name is Magic Mountain and after witnessing the misty haze we can see where they got the name. After a brief rest and photo taking  we headed down the steep path to our waiting bus which took us back into town.  

It’s late afternoon, most of the shops are closed. We browsed through those that were open and purchased a few trinkets. On the way back to the dock we stopped at a bar overlooking the harbour to enjoy a cool drink. The pace today was more relaxed and quite welcome after the fast pace of the last couple of days. We headed back to the ship. It’s still quite warm, before dinner some of the ladies took a refreshing dip in the sea.  After changing we went up on deck, cocktail in hand to watch the sunset and reflect on another great day in the Galapagos.

This afternoon we relaxed for a few hours on board the Beluga and kept out of the extreme heat of the day.  4pm we boarded the pangas for our transfer to South Plaza island for another adventurous hike.  Of course the sea lions were waiting to greet us.  Some lounged on our landing area, another one found a shady nook to sleep and the babies played in the water. There were some very beautiful doves and a Galapagos Heron on the rocks.

 Tour guide Juan escorted his harem up the rocks to begin our hike. It’s a very dry island with colourful moss and low lying plants of red, yellow and orange. There are many spotted lizards, marine iguanas, large land iguanas,  colourful finch and a pair of nesting doves. The iguanas don’t seem to mind their visitors getting up close to them. Iguanas like to eat cactus flowers. Not an easy task, they have to stretch up high to reach them.

We continue along the path, past lounging sea lions, colourful flowering cactus, finch eating the cactus flowers, more colourful land iguanas and some posing sea lion.  Eva sat down beside one in hopes of getting an up close photo.  He didn’t like her invading her space and was quite verbal about it.

 The rocks are covered in colourful moss, it almost looks like a carpet. We continue hiking up to the top of the island where the cliffs are high and the deep blue sea crashes against the wall of rock. This is a nesting ground for many birds.  They perch precariously on the edge. To our delight we finally view a Blue Footed Boobie. The view of the sea and the surrounding area is magnificent .

 As the sun begins to set so we head back down the path towards the waters edge.. We say goodbye to the lounging sea lions, herons and sally light foot crabs. Our ship awaits our return.
We enjoyed a fabulous dinner and afterwards Juan showed us his photos and videos from the day and reviewed the agenda for the following day. It’s been a long, busy day. Everyone is in the cabins ready for bed by 9pm

This morning we woke at 630am, breakfast at 7am.  Chef Segundo has laid out a feast of fresh fruit, omelettes, toast, cereal, granola, yogurt, fruit juices, coffee, tea.  We certainly won’t starve on this trip. At 8am we put on our life jackets and boarded the pangas for our transfer to Santa Fe island for a wet landing.  We are better prepared this time. As we approach the shore we can hear the sounds of the sea lions bellowing.

What a sight! There are dozens of sea lions, large and small.  They are so cute! Babies are are frolicking in the sea, some bellow for their mother, adult lions are sleeping on the warm sand and some snuggle up together.

Leaving the beach we head in land to discover the wildlife on the island of Santa Fe. First stop is to view the large land iguanas, colourful little lizzards and birds.

There’s a beautiful view of the sea from the top of the hill.  The terrain is a bit rugged and sometimes you must take large steps to get over the rocks. It’s imperative to watch your step on the uneven rocky path to avoid slips or falls.  It’s very hot (34 degrees) and humid. We made frequent stops to drink from our water bottles to avoid dehydration.

The path loops back to the beach were we first landed.  It’s a great view of the ships in the bay. Back at the beach we take a few more moments to observe the sea lions and enjoy the fresh salty air.  We remove our shoes, roll up our pants and climb back into the pangas for our transfer back to our ship to change into our swimsuits for snorkelling.

The ladies were very excited and looking forward to snorkelling.  The water is warm and clear.  It’s a hot day and a relief to dip in and cool off.  We swam towards the rocks where there are many colourful fish feeding. To our delight a sea lion joins us.  She swims back and forth entertaining us.  It was great fun!  We climb back into the pangas and transfer onto our ship. in time to enjoy a delectable lunch. Chef Segundo puts on another amazing spread; mixed salad, vegetables, rice, grilled fish and fresh fruit for dessert,  This afternoon we relaxed for a few hours as we cruised to another landing spot on South Plaza island.

This afternoon we visited Cerro Dragon (Dragon Hill) on Santa Cruz. Our first panga ride was a bit more than we bargained for.  It was supposed to be a dry landing but when we got to the shore the waves were too high to try and steady the panga at the small dock.  Plan B, wet landing. Our experienced panga drivers got as close to the beach edge as possible. We took off our socks and shoes, rolled up our pants and stepped into the warm water and waded to the shore. 

Tour guide Juan took us for stroll to observe Sally Lightfoot Crabs, Marine Iguanas, Pelican, Grey Heron and American Flamingos.  The islands are only inhabited by wildlife and the paths, lined with large cactus are clearly marked.  We are not permitted to go out of bounds. Iguana’s share the path with us. We move to make way for them.  It’s only fair, after all it is their island, we are only guests. It’s very hot and humid and the mosquitoes are starting to appear. 

The rain begins so we decide to cut the walk short and get back to the boat before the sea gets too rough. When we return to the boat the rain has let up. Some of the ladies decide to go for a swim.  The water is warm and the air hot.  It’s a wonderful way to end our first afternoon. Before dinner we enjoyed a welcome cocktail and were introduced to the crew that will be taking care of us during the week.  After dinner tour guide Juan briefed us on the schedule for the following day.  We’ll be visiting two islands, Santa Fe and  South Plaza Island.  It’s been a long day, everyone was in bed by 9pm to be rested in time for the 630am wakeup. Tomorrow will be another great day!

Leaving Quito we boarded our flight for Baltra, gateway to the Galapagos Islands. From the airport it was a short drive to the dock where our panga drivers Jonathan and Ivan are waiting to take us to the M/Y Beluga. Our deluxe yacht for the next 7 days.  The Beluga is outfitted exclusively for the Galapagos Islands and has been awarded the Smart Voyager certification for adhering to conservation standards.

Our cabins are cozy and the main living area is spacious with a comfy seating area, bar and 2 large dining room tables. Up on deck there’s plenty of room to stretch out and relax.  The ladies and Vino settled in  nicely. A large frigate bird has decided to hitch a ride with us.

The siren blows and the ladies scurry to their cabins to get their life jackets and then head up on deck to get our emergency instructions.  Thankfully it’s only a drill.  It’s time for our first meal on the Beluga. Chef Segundo and bartender / waiter Roberto are ready to serve.  The food is amazing! I think I might gain a few pounds on this trip.

This morning we travelled north to the land of the Otavalos and South America’s most famous Indian market. Our journey was about 90 minutes along the Pan-American Highway through dramatic mountain scenery.First stop was at Dazante Handicrafts to view a true artisan at work making traditional pieces from bread dough.  Vino liked the Lama.

The scenery along the way is stunning and interesting with locals selling food, flowers and more at the side of the road.  We took a brief stop at roadside convenience centre to taste biscuits and dolce de lece. Delicious!  There were a couple of very small women dressed !n traditional Ecuadorian costumes, young women selling beautiful scarves and a little shop selling hand crafted Panama hats.  Years ago the original Panama hats were made in Ecuador for the men working on the Panama Canal, hence the name Panama hat. I think everyone bought a hat. The prices were fantastic.

One of the young women boarded our bus to get a ride to the next town.  She sang some Ecuadorian songs for us and then proceeded to sell us some her beautiful scarves. The ladies seem to enjoy bus shopping!

Otavalo Market is the most famous indigenous market in Ecuador. It’s because of the colourful fabrics, intricate embroideries, music, and more importantly, for its conservation of its customs that have made this market a place you can’t miss out on if you are in Ecuador. The market is a winding maze of stalls filled with traditional ponchos, blankets, wall hangings and more. There’s an array of colourful goods and interesting people  We had 1 hour to explore, shop and mingle. It’s amazing how much shopping can be done in only 1 hour. Fun!

We also visited the village of Peguche, home to the artisans who do weaving in their homes. A brief stroll about town reveals  the colourful buildings and interesting people.

We are treated to a weaving demonstration to learn how they use the alpaca wool to create the intricate traditional designs.

Our lunch was in the charming Hacienda Pinsaqui. Upon arrival we were greeted by a trio playing traditional Ecuadorian music.   They serenaded as we following the pathway leading up to the manor house. Vino seemed to enjoy the experience. The charming historical home is filled with antiques. and the restaurant overlooks the estate.  

The grounds are stunning, with beautiful gardens filled with flowering bushes and majestic trees. After our delicious lunch the ladies took a stroll  through the gardens.

After lunch we boarded the bus for our ride back to Quito. Along the way we made a stop at an orphanage in San Pablo del Lago, a home for children born with aids.  Father Francesco selflessly dedicates his time and love to care for the children.  The children are delighted to have visitors and you can see by the interaction they truly love the Father, which they affectionately call Papa. There are 19 children ranging in age from 4 to 15 years. The newest arrival is a beautiful 14 year old girl with her 3 week old baby.  The home is a stunning historical convent with bright airy rooms, a charming chapel and a large park like area surrounding the house. This is a loving home environment with a team of wonderful caregivers; a cook, housekeeper, driver and 2 teachers that assist with their homework and daily living skills.  The children live a normal family lifestyle here and attend a nearby school in San Pablo.  Our ladies generously donated school items, soccer balls, hair bands and barrets, a teddy bear for the new baby and cash.  Father Francesco was very pleased with our visit and extremely grateful for our gifts.